PHYSICSSection 4.10.38 · Building 10 · ELUSK · College X · Engineering · ELUSKWave generation, propagation, reflection, and refraction in a coastal tank model.
🌊 Engineering · College X · ELUSK
The Coastal Wave Tank
Wave generation, propagation, reflection, and refraction in a coastal tank model.
A wave train enters from the left over deep water, shoals up over the bathymetry, and breaks somewhere before
the shoreline. Drop a barrier island, plant a mangrove fringe, raise a
house on piers — and watch which combinations save the structure when a Cat-4 hits.
Three layers of mediocre protection beat one layer of strong protection.
The Discipline
Why the barrier island is out there
Every coastal city in the Gulf and along the Atlantic has, somewhere offshore, a long thin strip of sand that the
ocean built and the wind keeps repairing. Galveston has Galveston Island. Pensacola has Santa Rosa. The
Mississippi coast hides behind Ship Island and Horn Island. Long Island shelters New York. The Outer Banks
shelter most of North Carolina.
Until the 20th century nobody thought of these as anything but real-estate obstacles — sand bars in the way
of the port. The discipline that taught Americans to read them as protection grew up in two waves.
First, the Galveston hurricane of 1900 killed somewhere between six and twelve thousand people in a single
night and forced the first serious attempt at a hard coastal defense: the Galveston Seawall. Second, after
Hurricane Katrina in 2005 destroyed an entire reach of Louisiana wetlands that had been protecting New Orleans
for centuries, coastal engineering swung back toward natural defenses — barrier islands,
mangroves, oyster reefs, restored marsh.
The Dutch lesson
The country that thinks about this best is the Netherlands. After the 1953 North Sea flood killed 1,836 people
they built the Delta Works — one of the largest engineering projects in human history. Then they spent
the next 60 years discovering that the hard engineering alone was not enough. Room for the River,
published in 2007, is the Dutch admission that you cannot wall the sea out; you have to give it room and you
have to build in layers. Sand replenishment beach, dune, dike, polder, secondary dike, drainage system.
Five layers. Each one alone fails. Together they work.
The Mangrove Alliance lesson
Twenty years of paired-watershed studies from Asia, Australia, Florida, and the Caribbean have shown that a
mangrove fringe even 100 m wide cuts the wave energy reaching the shoreline by 50–75%. The 2004 Indian
Ocean tsunami caused dramatically less damage to villages sheltered behind mature mangrove than to villages
that had cleared theirs for shrimp ponds. Replanting mangrove is now an active line item in coastal protection
grants in every NOAA region.
The defense-in-depth lesson
What the Dutch and the Mangrove Alliance and the Louisiana wetland restoration projects all converge on is the
same insight: three layers of mediocre protection beat one layer of strong protection. This
lab is built around exactly that lesson. Place the barrier alone — watch it overtop in surge. Plant the
mangrove alone — watch it submerge. Raise the house on piers alone — watch the waves load it.
Now stack them. The structure rides out the same Cat-4.
Why It Matters
The kid in Galveston deserves to see this
Most coastal engineering education happens after a major storm, in pamphlet form, in the worst possible mood.
This lab is built so a 12-year-old can walk through the physics of defense in depth before any FEMA pamphlet
ever lands in front of them.
The wave engine is the same shallow-water equation that runs in every coastal engineer's professional model.
The breaker index is the same 0.78 ratio that determines where the surf line forms on a real beach. The
mangrove drag formulation is the same shape (with one parameter instead of four) that Mendez and Losada
published in 2004 and that every wetland-restoration grant uses to size a planting. The barrier-island
transmission coefficient is the same emergent-vs-submerged switch that determines whether Santa Rosa Island
stops a storm or surrenders to it.
What you'll learn by sliding
Wave speed depends on depth. Push the storm slider up — the surge raises the
water depth uniformly, the waves speed up everywhere, and where they used to break is now further inland.
Breaking is a depth threshold. Wave height exceeds about 78% of local depth and the
wave commits to breaking. Watch the foam line. That's the surf zone.
Emergent barriers attenuate waves; submerged barriers don't. Cresting the barrier in
surge is exactly the point of the barrier — it protects in normal weather and surrenders gracefully
in extreme weather. The lab teaches that as a feature, not a failure.
Mangroves work by dissipation, not by walling. Each stem extracts a tiny bit of energy.
A hundred yards of dense fringe extracts enough to drop the shoreline wave height by half.
FEMA freeboard isn't bureaucratic. Drop the pier-floor slider and watch the structure
go from SAFE to LOADED to DAMAGED. Raise it. The same storm becomes survivable. That's the BFE+freeboard
decision made visible.
Where you'll meet this again
Coastal engineering studios use this exact set of layers when sizing the Galveston
seawall extension or the Mobile Bay storm-surge barrier.
Wetland-restoration grant writing uses mangrove-drag dissipation as the line-item
justification for a planting.
FEMA Community Rating System credits exactly this kind of layered protection —
a community gets discounts on flood insurance for having barrier-island protection, mangrove fringes,
and elevated structures simultaneously.
Bridge and pier engineering uses the same wave-load math when sizing the pile-supported
approach to a coastal bridge.
About & Sources
What this is and isn't
A browser-based 1D shallow-water wave-equation solver on a 200-cell grid representing a coastal profile from
deep water on the left to shoreline on the right. Wave speed varies cell-by-cell with local water depth via
c = √(g·h). When local wave amplitude exceeds 0.78 times local depth,
a breaker dissipation term is applied to that cell. Mangrove cells apply an additional drag-based dissipation
proportional to stem density. The barrier-island defense is rendered as a raised seabed segment offshore;
transmission across it depends on whether the still-water level is above or below the barrier crest.
The math under the hood
Wave equation on a 1D grid: utt = c(x)2
· uxx, finite-difference with CFL chosen for the deepest (fastest) cell.
Shallow-water wave speed: c(x) = √(g·h(x))
where h is the still-water depth at x. The deep boundary sets h; the
bathymetry interpolates linearly to the shoreline.
Breaker dissipation: when local wave amplitude |u| exceeds γ·h
with γ = 0.78 (Munk breaker index), apply a strong damping coefficient to that cell. The cell renders
as foam.
Mangrove drag (simplified Mendez-Losada form): for cells inside the mangrove band,
apply additional damping proportional to (stem density) × (submergence ratio). Submergence ratio =
min(1, water depth / stem height). For v0.1 this is a single-parameter slider.
Barrier-island transmission: raised seabed segment in the offshore region. If still-water
level < barrier crest, transmission coefficient ~ 0.25 (emergent barrier blocks most energy). If
still-water level > barrier crest, transmission coefficient ~ 0.75 (submerged barrier passes most energy
with mild dissipation).
Structure load: wave crest amplitude at the structure’s x-position, summed over the
last ~2 wave periods. If the crest exceeds the pier-floor elevation, the load indicator increments. Damage
accumulates if the load stays above threshold for several periods.
Section 4.10.38 · OPA Engineering Suite, sibling to The Horseshoe Vortex (4.10.35),
Concert Hall Acoustics (4.10.36), and Live Beam (4.10.37). Shares the brass/dark palette, the matrix
scorecard pattern from Horseshoe Vortex, the profile-view move from Concert Hall, and the defensive
try/catch + red error toast convention from the whole suite.
Filed under Opathorlokan University, 900 Arkadelphia Road, Birmingham, Alabama 35254. Built by
Travis Jenkins (User Zero) with Claude. The lab exists so that a coastal-state student can see
why the barrier island is out there and why ecological defenses matter before any
FEMA pamphlet ever lands in front of them.
A note from the builder
Single developer. About to be a 49‑year‑old father and solo builder.
If you see something wrong, please let me know — I’ll change it as soon as I can. I’ll credit you if you want the credit.
Some labs are better than others; a few have obvious broken bits I’m still working through. Some were built early, some late — they don’t all look the same, but they share a feel.